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Whenever compiling a list of London’s finest restaurants, one might foresee familiar award-winning establishments. But, nestled high among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu situated in a outlying area of northern London.

An Unexpected Accolade

This small Turkish eatery, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a influential culinary publication. The recognition has left the family completely astonished.

“I am totally astonished,” remarks a proprietor, alluding to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their small shop earning such a high ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has retained much of its original charm. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking show, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” notes the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the fare, and this restaurant more than delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent quality.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. As the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is often eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in less syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Stars

Notably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for under £25, equivalent tasting menus at luxury establishments can start at many times that figure.

A Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is most important is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Dedication

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at elite establishments. “I feel very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this gastronomic achievement.